The Dezerter Bazaar (Georgian: დეზერტერის ბაზარი, Dezerteris bazari), or Deserter’s Market, is the largest and most vibrant fresh food market in Tbilisi, Georgia. It’s not just a place to shop; it’s a bustling, sensory experience that offers a deep dive into Georgian culinary culture and daily life. Located in the Station Square area, it’s the city’s main agricultural hub, supplying fresh produce and other goods to locals and restaurants alike.

History and Atmosphere

The market’s unique name has a historical origin. According to local lore, in the early 1920s after the Russo-Georgian War, soldiers from the Red Army who had deserted sold their weapons and gear on this very site to survive, leading to the name “Market of Deserters.” Today, the market is a chaotic and authentic mix of Asian and European bazaar styles. While it was re-modeled in 2012 with a purpose-built covered area, the surrounding streets are still filled with a lively atmosphere, and you’ll find everything from traditional vendors to new, modern-style stalls.

What You’ll Find at the Market

The Dezerter Bazaar is a treasure trove of Georgian flavors, sights, and sounds. The vast market is an excellent place to explore the ingredients that form the backbone of Georgian cuisine.

• Fresh Produce: The market’s main draw is its immense variety of fresh, seasonal, and often pesticide-free fruits and vegetables brought directly from farms across Georgia. You’ll find piles of colorful tomatoes, cucumbers, bell peppers, and various herbs.

• Traditional Foods: This is the best place to find unique Georgian specialties. Look for huge wheels of fresh farm cheese (sulguni and imeruli), barrels of an incredible variety of pickled vegetables, and a rainbow of spices sold by the scoop. You’ll also see fresh honey, walnuts, and traditional sweets.

• Meat and Fish: The market has a covered indoor area where you can find butchers selling fresh meat and stalls with various fresh and salted fish.

• Other Goods: The market extends into the surrounding streets, where you’ll find stalls selling a wide array of goods beyond food. This includes second-hand clothes, shoes, household items, pottery, and much more, blending seamlessly with the food vendors.

Visitor Experience and Tips

• Bargaining: Haggling is a part of the experience, especially for non-food items, so don’t be afraid to politely negotiate.

• Best Time to Visit: The market is most lively in the morning, so it’s best to visit early to see it at its most bustling. By the afternoon, the crowd begins to die down. The market is open every day of the week.

• Getting There: The market is located near Tbilisi Central Railway Station and Dinamo Arena. The easiest way to get there is by taking the metro to Station Square and then it’s just a short walk. You can also take a taxi or a local bus.

• Sensory Overload: Be prepared for a full sensory experience. The air is thick with the aromas of spices, herbs, and fresh produce. The sights are a chaotic collage of colors and textures, making it a dream for photographers and foodies.

• Don’t Confuse it with the Dry Bridge Market: While both are popular open-air markets, the Dezerter Bazaar is primarily a food market, whereas the Dry Bridge Market is known for its antiques and flea market items. They are in different parts of the city.

The Dezerter Bazaar offers a tangible connection to the heartbeat of Tbilisi and its food culture, making it a must-visit for anyone who wants to experience the city like a local.