The Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater and its distinctive Clock Tower are among Tbilisi’s most enchanting and whimsical landmarks, bringing a touch of fairytale magic to the heart of its Old Town. They are the brainchild of the renowned Georgian artist, writer, and director Rezo Gabriadze.
Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater:
Founder and Visionary: The theater was founded in 1981 by Rezo Gabriadze, a celebrated polymath known for his screenplays (“Mimino,” “Don’t Grieve”), painting, sculpture, and, of course, puppetry. He designed the entire theater building himself, imbuing it with his unique artistic vision.
Intimate Setting: The theater is relatively small, with only about 80 seats, creating an intimate and immersive experience for the audience.
Sophisticated Puppetry: Far from typical children’s puppet shows, Gabriadze’s productions are renowned for their depth, meaning, and artistic sophistication. They often tackle mature themes with poetic narratives and intricate marionettes, gaining international acclaim and touring prestigious venues worldwide (like Lincoln Center, Edinburgh Festival, and Barbican Center).
Notable Repertoire: The theater’s repertoire includes acclaimed shows such as “The Autumn of My Spring,” “The Battle of Stalingrad,” “Ramona,” and “Diamond of Marshal de Fant’e.”
Philosophical Inscription: The facade of the theater bears a golden inscription in Latin: “Extra Cepam Nihil Cogito Nos Lacrimare” (meaning “Let our tears come only when cutting onions”), reflecting Gabriadze’s wry humor and artistic philosophy.
Gabriadze Cafe: Adjacent to the theater is the cozy “Gabriadze Cafe,” also designed by Rezo Gabriadze, with its whimsical decor, paintings, and a charming summer terrace often offering views of the nearby Anchiskhati Basilica.
The Whimsical Clock Tower:
A “New Old” Landmark: Built in 2010 by Rezo Gabriadze himself during a renovation of the theater, this unique clock tower quickly became one of Tbilisi’s most recognizable and beloved symbols, despite its relatively recent construction. Its quirky, leaning design and use of salvaged materials (like river stones and bricks from old houses) give it an instantly aged and fairytale-like appearance.
Eccentric Design: The tower is famously crooked, supported by a massive metal beam (reportedly recycled from the old Metekhi Bridge). It’s adorned with hundreds of small, hand-painted ceramic tiles designed and made by Gabriadze himself, adding to its bespoke charm. It also features the smallest clock in Georgia.
The Hourly Angel: On the hour, a beautifully painted door at the top of the tower opens, and a golden-winged angel emerges to strike the bell with a small hammer, delighting onlookers.
“The Circle of Life” Puppet Show: Twice a day, at 12:00 PM (noon) and 7:00 PM, a larger central door beneath the clock opens to reveal a small, intricate puppet theater within the tower. Here, a charming and poignant 2-minute miniature puppet show called “The Circle of Life” unfolds. Set to the beautiful music of composer Gia Khancheli, it depicts the stages of human life – from meeting and falling in love to marriage, having children, and eventually, the passing of generations.
Location: The Clock Tower stands prominently on Shavteli Street in the very heart of Tbilisi’s Old Town, making it a popular spot for both locals and tourists, often captured in countless photographs. It’s just a short walk from Anchiskhati Basilica.
The Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater and its iconic Clock Tower are a must-visit for anyone in Tbilisi, offering a magical blend of art, storytelling, and unique architecture that captures the imaginative spirit of the city.
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